The giant paint splatter on the runway gave it away — spring was going to be an arty affair. And, indeed, the first look out was a white dress with a great big brushstroke down the front.

But in addition to watercolor graphics, artsy also suggests a certain prettily undone vibe. So Clare Waight Keller let loose with fabric and texture manipulations — folding, draping, bunching, pleating and puckering to a fare thee well. Core here was the ruffle, which came spilling down shirts, cascading across cardigans, running freeform across the body of dresses, skirts and jackets, giving the collection a vaguely Spanish feel.Keller also added a nautical motif in a number of laid-back striped white and navy shirting and trousers. But ultimately, this patchworking of ideas didn’t quite gel. Too much artsy-craftsy and too little of that terrific at-ease sportswear Pringle is known for.