A neat special effect opened Rick Owens: Not the misty cloud that rose from the floor and vanished into thin air, but the breeze it sent through the hot, crowded room. As for the clothes, they were coolly chic, although Owens did his best to disguise them with scary nuns’ caps and flappy boots. A moody palette — all black and gray — dominated, but there was a lightness to the looks, beginning with the jersey rompers. Yes, that nearly trite trend based on cutesy children’s wear was anything but from Owens’ avant point of view. Legs were slouchy, crotches swaddled, and cuts sliced in on the rib cage, leaving the back wide open save for a sheer tulle strap or a cowl at the tailbone. It was a sexy, sophisticated street that segued into a more covered-up moment, where Owens has consistently done his most interesting work. Molded leather vests and Japanesey tie-front trenches won’t disappoint his hard and fast, fashion-forward clients, but Owens did best with soft silk cape jackets that were cut away at the underarms to coattails trailing gracefully in the wind.